Hapuna to Mauna Kea
On the Big Island of Hawai’i are a number of routes along the coastline, crossing lava fields around points and into bays and beaches. One of the best beaches (or the best) is at Hapuna Bay State Park. This is a wide sand beach, a destination for families on holiday. We were there on a hot and windy day and there were some impressive waves, one of which reminded me to respect the power of the ocean. After being unceremoniously crunched in the surf, we hiked north around Kaunaoa Point to Kaunaoa Bay (Mauna Kea Beach) and back, a 2.5 km return hike.
The route is an extension of the Ala Kahakai Trail (Kawaihae-Anaehoomalu) from Mauna Lani to Hapuna (15.4 mile loop). North of Hapuna is a track along volcanic sea cliffs with some archaeological sites along the route.
At the northern end of the route is Mauna Kea Beach surrounded by resorts. This beautiful spot has limited access since the parking area is within a resort and fills up every day. Hiking to the beach is a good alternative.
Since access to the ocean is guaranteed by law in Hawai’i, private home and resorts have to leave access to the headlands and shoreline. Sometimes the route is too rough but over time, informal trails are established next to the ocean. A coral/shell beach along the route made for good beachcombing.
A few scraggly kiawe trees stand along the rocky shoreline providing little shade on the black rock. The lava in this area is older than the flows of South Kohala and are therefore more weathered. Some grasses and small shrubs are established as compared to the desert lava flows to the south.
Hiking on the Big Island is different. The whole island is less than 1 million years old and the southern areas were covered in lava flows less than 200 years ago. Hiking is slow-going on rugged terrain. There are no routes across the vast lava fields, but there are routes along the shoreline, The actions of waves, wind, and humans has allowed routes to be established between the beaches and bays of the west coast.