Angels, Turn Right
We hiked the Angels Landing Trail for the first time in 2012 (link to the article), then returned twice more in 2013. Every time it has been a very busy trail, filled with hikers and anyone else who wants to add an adventure, ready for it or not. Although we like the route, we won’t return to do this hike, unless perhaps if it is very early in the morning.
The first section of the trail follows the north side of the Virgin River, then starts to climb toward the red sandstone cliffs of Cathedral Mountain. The route switchbacks up a sheer slope to Refrigerator Canyon, climbs up the short steep section called Walter’s Wiggles, then finally tops the ridge at Scout’s Landing. Although there are a lot of people throughout this section, the trail is wide and it is easy to pass people. Hikers can turn right to Angels Landing or turn left onto the West Rim Trail.
If you turn right, you will have to slow down and then turn up your patience-tolerance. Most of the remaining section is narrow, precarious, and full of nervous people. It is hard to pass anyone and it will be slow-going. For those of us used to quick-scrambling up and down, it is a frustrating experience. And more than that, it scares other hikers when we hop up and down the ledges. Curses abound. At Scouts Landing, only angels should turn right.
We prefer the left turn instead, up the slickrock ridges above towards the West Rim. This is a sustained climb with spectacular scenery, one of our favorites. Follow this trail up to the top of the mesa and back, a 9 mile return hike. Hikers, turn left.