The best hiking trails in Grand Canyon National Park go down into the canyon and back up again.   All the way to the river and back up is a big challenge, and not advisable on a hot day, so many visitors go part way down and back up, and most stick to the “Main Corridor” trails.   The “off-corridor” trails are much rougher and more demanding, so they see less hikers.   There are really only 7 trails down from the South Rim area.   Two are Corridor hikes (Kaibab and Bright Angel). Three are a longer drive from the Village/main area (South Bass, Tanner, New Hance).   The other two trails were both hiked on this trip in 2013 (Hermit, Grandview).

The Grandview trailhead is 8.7 miles east of the South Rim Village.   From the viewpoint at 7430 feet, the trail immediately starts a very steep, rocky descent.   All of these trails have to negotiate the sheer escarpment and this trail winds down with switchbacks, sidehill shelves, and narrow traverses, following an old Indian route.   The trail was rebuilt by miner Peter Barry in 1892 who used the trail for his Last Chance Mine on Horseshoe Mesa.   The trail has not been upgraded in over 100 years, but is generally in good shape.

There appears to be no way down the cliffs, but the route expertly combines tight switchbacks and steep sloped rock steps to bridge two saddles and beyond to Horseshoe Mesa.   After 3 miles of steep downhill hiking, Miners Spring is reached, the only water available in the area.    Signs warned of radioactive material in the area.  Some mining tunnels and old mining relics can be seen on a side trail.

A junction is reached at 3.2 miles.   Cottonwood Campsite sits on the mesa among junipers.    Trails drop into Cottonwood Creek on the west and on the east to Hance Creek.  A 13 miles loop can be backpacked, usually taking about 3-4 days.   I hiked past the miner’s stone cabin ruins and another mile out to the end of Horseshoe Mesa at 4900 feet to a breath-taking viewpoint for lunch and a short rest before the 4.2 mile return climb.

The views across to the North side included the Coronado Butte, the Vishnu Temple, Sheba Temple, Rama Shrine, the Tabernacle, Palisades of the Desert, and beyond to the forested North Rim.

The first mile on the butte was hot and exposed, then the (very) steep 3.2 mile climb challenges all hikers, especially in the afternoon sun.  I carried enough water this time and kept up a brisk pace.

On a ridge, I unexpectedly came upon a fully mature California condor perched on a ledge overlooking Upper Hance Creek.   The blue band shows it is one of the protected species in the United States.   It is the largest predatory bird on the continent (an 8-9 foot wingspan) and even though I came within 15 feet, it seemed to be only curious when it saw me.

Near the top of the trail, a few tourist ill-equipped for this kind of hike were passed, but I said nothing and crested the top.   This was my favorite trail in the Grand Canyon.   It was steep, rugged, scenic, quiet, and if fit enough, a good out-and-back day hike.   After 4 days of backpacking, it was nice to go light and make better time on the trail.   (Although the Grandview Loop is now on my to-be-backpacked list.)