There a few trail systems in the world that have their own unique quality.    Kokee State Park is on of those.    Is location is on top of the island of Kauai.   It is flanked on the north and west sides by the Na Pali Coast, sheer fluted ridges and cliffs that drop 4000 feet to the ocean.    On the south side is Waimea Canyon, the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific", red-rock canyons, gorges, cliffs, and ridges, eroded by the constant rains and streams flowing to the coast.   And, dominating this environment, Mt. Waialeale, the top of the island, the wettest spot on Earth.   Lying between Waialeale and Kokee lies the Alaiki'i Swamp, a deep wet jungle that lies inside the caldera of the mountain.

It is amazing that a road could have been built up here at all.   The only possible route climbs from the southwest corner, the driest part of the island, and it winds up open ridges on its way to a 17 mile climb from dry scrub past the rim of Waimea Canyon, along the edge of the Na Pali Coast, and to the rim of the caldera separating the pali (cliffs) from the Alaki'i Swamp.   A few 4WD roads descend either side into the forest-jungle on one side, or down the ridges on the other.    Even 4W drivers don't venture down either side during or after a rainfall.  Since it rains on the east side every day, they watch the weather carefully.   Yesterday we hiked a trail on the edge of the aliki'i and everywhere was slippery.

With the tropical climate, it seemed natural to hike in sandals and just venture out, but over 3 visits to Kokee, we have found that hiking boots and a trekking pole are best.   We don't venture up to the top of the mountain when it is clouded in.   We get an early start and try to get the bulk of the hike in before lunch.   Inevitably, the tropical sun evaporates the  moisture of the swamp on top, and the mists form, followed by afternoon showers.   The showers often expand to much of the island overnight.    Wise hikers get up early, look up the mountain, and if it is clear, get an early start. 

Some of the hikes are short, but many are long and a few are steep.   With many loop choices, a single long hike could include a section along the rim of the caldera, a descent into the Alaki'i Swamp, a climb around the upper dry ridges of Waimea Canyon and its side canyons, or a descent down one of the fluted dry ridges along the Na Pali with 4000 foot sheer drops on two sides.   Within a few miles, you can hike from jungle to dry ridge.    The forest is dense, impenetratable, and other-worldly.    Birds sing everywhere.   Lizards scramble for cover and the diggings of wild boar area seen here and there.    Streams are dark, but fish live in an environment that never freezes.    Waterfalls plunge over cliffs at the edges of the caldera.  

Each trail has its own special "flavor" depending on the environment and terrain it enters.   Each has its own story, to be told in later posts.